Building Two




Glidden's successes in a category of competition that virtually every observer considers, the toughest and most hard-fought, his Fords have faced off against a veritable army of Chevrolets, Pontiacs and Oldsmobile's, winning far more often than not. And, while every other competitor has had a peer group from whom guidance regarding engine building and development has been available, Glidden has had to go it alone. Far more than just a superior race driver, Glidden has become a race engine development engineer, he's certainly the Ph.D. of Ford Drag Racing power plants.  Jenkins earned the "Grumpy" moniker through his no-nonsense attitude at races, where his continual search for improved performance left little time for idle chatter with his racing colleagues. Jenkins earned a considerable reputation as a driver, winning a combined total of 13 NHRA national Pro Stock events from 1965 to 1975. With the bulk of his driving career taking place before the era of clutchless planetary gear transmissions, Jenkins achieved most of his wins with a manually shifted four-speed transmission, recording an incredible streak of over 250 runs without missing a shift in 1972.

I`ll be starting with these two  REVELL snaptite kits. Both bodies will retain all stock body lines just as they appear if the 1.1 photos.

I started off trying to build the two cars hood scoops. Neither of these 2 styles are available anywhere in 1/32 scale, believe me I looked everywhere. So the only alternative was to make them. For this I used various sizes of  PLASTISTRUCT .  The Bob Glidden car has the classic Snorkel, while the Bill Jenkins car has the "GRUMP LUMP"


Now that I`ve got my bodies picked out, I`ll move on to the running gear. For the chassis I will be using the cheap and versatile Artin chassis. Sinse these cars will never be actually in a race, speed is not a factor. So I will be leaving the Artin motor in place for this build. Here is the Camaro chassis that has been fitted with some CARERRA Crager type front wheels, and a set of CARERRA stocker wheels (with Indy Grip tires) on the rear. I will be going thru the Camaro project to the finished car before going on to the Mustang.

Here is the body after mounting post were added. Plastruct 3/16" / 4.8 mm Butyrate Tubing # 90105 was used to make the posts.

And a couple pictures of the body mounted. Now I`ll be working on a cut down interior to cover the motor. And a little body work before sending it off to the paint shop.


Ok into the paint shop for a little priming and some wet sanding. Still has water dripping off.


Here`s a few shots of the chassis after mounting to the body.


Now the finished car fresh from the Derby City Paint shop. After the paint it was off to SLOTCARS4U for the great lettering job Thanks a ton Tim !!!

Now it is time to get started on the Bob Glidden Mustang. First thing I want to do is get the wheels and tires ready. Now sinse these are not a readily available set, they will have to be scratched. Believe it or not I found a very nice set of inserts on a 1/64 scale die cast by BIG TIME muscle. I bought 2 of these at $1 each at Big Lots. I will be using only the rears.

Now for the tires I used Scalextric replacement silicone tires because they look like a 15" tire with the wide profile.For the wheel I choose the Slot.It 15x8 plastic hubs.


Now here I ran into a little problem because the wheels have a wide rib and the tires require a narrow rib. So beings I have a small Lathe this was easily fixed. As you can see the die cast inserts are a great fit with nothing done.


Here is the chassis, the basic Artin with a few minor adjustments just to get some inside tire clearance. The wheels have been painted also to try and give a more brushed aluminum look. Front wheels are also Slot.It with Monogram Greenwood front tires.

Here are a couple pictures of the body after fitting on the chassis. Still have a bit of body work to do yet.The chrome along the bottom of the body will be removed along with the MACH 1 and marker lights.

Now that the body has been fitted to the chassis (not mounted yet) I will begin reworking the interior. As you can see here I have trimmed the interior out quite a bit to give the clearance needed around all the vital areas. The bottom was removed to allow the body to sit down around the chassis.


Now here is the interior tray after a little Plastruct sheet was added to resemble wheel tubs, and a cover for the area to cover the crown gear. This was all glued together with Plastruct Bondene. Then the under side seams were filled with hot glue just to add a little strength.


These are a couple views looking through the rear window that shows the finished interior. The interior will be completely hot glued into the body later.


Back to some body work now, here you can see the body has been relieved of the chrome molding at the bottom along with the marker lights and MACH 1 emblem.Then it was wet sanded and sent to the paint shop. On the right is a picture right from the paint booth. The hood scoop was also painted metalic blue.


The side glass was cut using the body set on its side on top of some cardboard, the carboard templates were then cut out and traced around on some Evergreen clear styrene. Then they were cut out.

Here is the finished chassis and body. Check out that straight pin shifter...

And the complete car

A little detail that was added to this build although very hard to see, is the lug bolts in the front and rear wheels. This was done by drilling out the selected areas, and adding straight pins that were cut to lenght, and super glued in place.

How about this match-up

Thanks again to  SLOTCARS4U for the awesome lettering job great work Tim !!!